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  • American Fork Canyon: Where Steep Sport Climbing Started in America
    American Fork pioneer Boone Speed (Photo: Christine Bailey Speed) In winter 1988, Bill Boyle, Boone Speed, and Jeff Pedersen hiked 40 minutes up the steep northern slopes of American Fork Canyon, just south of Salt Lake City, through a foot of snow
  • 5. 14b FA by Jacinda Hunter - Climbing - Climbing Magazine
    Jacinda Hunter climbing in American Fork Canyon Photo courtesy of Prana 7 9 10 – A little over a week ago, Jacinda Hunter, 31, nabbed the FA of her project Fantasy Island, a 5 14b in Utah s American Fork Canyon This is an impressive feat, considering that Hunter manages to find time for climbing along with a registered nurse career and four children
  • The 20 Year Project: Watch Dalton Bunker Make the FA of Hell Cave 5. 14d
    The Hell Cave is the smoked stained, yet oddly aesthetic center piece for hard, steep climbing in American Fork Canyon, Utah It’s stacked with short, brutal no-rest routes
  • Climbing Magazine Print Preview: July 2018
    Chris Schulte grapples with the legendary compression highball Airwolf (V7), Indian Creek, Utah Andrew Burr Editor’s Note Out with the old? Climbing and the inevitability of change In 1990, I belayed Boone Speed on the FA of I’ll Take Black, a 5 12c on the Malvado Wall at the Hell area in American Fork (AF), Utah Speed was a founding father at AF and later became the first American to
  • Super Tweak: Boone Speeds Visionary Creativity | Climbing
    In the 1980s, when I was getting into the sport, I had a climbing calendar in my bedroom One month, the photo was of a lanky climber named Boone Speed on Freebase in the Cocaine Gully at Smith Rock It seemed like a put-on
  • Climbing Hot Flashes - Climbing - Climbing Magazine
    James Litz has redpointed I Scream (5 14c) in the Hell Cave of American Fork Canyon, Utah, according to www 8a nu The bouldery route, perhaps Utah’s hardest, has seen only a handful of repeats Litz spent a couple of months last summer bouldering in Colorado and repeated many of the state’s hardest problems, including Nothin’ But Sunshine and Circadian Rhythm, both V14, in Rocky Mountain
  • Megan Walsh Archives - Climbing
    Megan Walsh is a climber writer in Salt Lake City She loves exploring routes in Utah and beyond, but is even more stoked about furthering the progress of women in the outdoors
  • How the 1988 Snowbird Climbing Comp Changed Everything - Climbing
    Now It’s really happening Snowbird, Utah, June 11-12, 1988 The first International Sport Climbing Championship: a whole new world in the United States
  • Six Classic Crags That Shaped American Rock Climbing
    This article was originally published in Climbing in 2011 under the title “Where it All Began ”It has been updated where relevant Smith Rock, Oregon Call it the birthplace of American sport climbing, home to the States’ first 5 14, or an international playground—whichever description you choose, you’d be correct
  • A Look at One of America’s Hardest, Thinnest Sport Crags
    This article originally appeared in Climbing in 2016 In the spring of 1988, Salt Lake City climbers Boone Speed and Jeff Pedersen drove through Arizona’s Virgin River Gorge (VRG) on a tip from a BLM-employed friend who had praised the velvety gray limestone he had seen there “It’s like the French rock in the magazine,” he told Speed, who, with Pedersen, had just started developing





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