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  • Baseboards: To cope or not to cope? - Fine Homebuilding
    *Jim - Like Steve says, coping is often considered one mark of a Craftsman, since it is the traditional method for inside corners Your work will be judged by by other carpenters, and lay people "in the know" by many things Cope the cornors, with MDF you have to change your angle for the cope When you cope wood you "lay the coping saw
  • Craftsman style baseboard install questions : r HomeImprovement - Reddit
    Craftsman style baseboard install questions If your walls are even slightly off 90 degrees you'll have to play with the miter angle a bit but you'd have to do that with a butt joint anyway Even if its not perfect you can caulk it and no one will ever know (assuming your painting that is) using 1x6 base I don't see how you can cope
  • Installing Baseboard - THISisCarpentry
    Learn how to cope molding, and you’ll be a craftsman 1 Miter joints aren’t forgiving If a wall is bowed, or a corner out of square, a miter won’t close tightly Miters require extra fiddling time And they have to be cut exactly the right length No, you do NOT have to cope that :) A cope joint is really a butt joint cut to the
  • Using butt joints for inside and outside corners - City-Data. com
    Attached is an example of a very basic "craftsman style" door casing Just legs and an extended header with butt joints There are plenty of YouTube videos that will show you how to do it After a couple of practice tries, you should be able to cope a joint in a minute or less Butt joints, especially at outside corners, might do the job
  • To cope or not to cope base trim - DIY Home Improvement Forum
    It really isn't hard Do most of the work with you're miter saw, back-cut the cope with your coping saw, and fine tune with your rasp The first few joints may take a while but speed will come with experience You're going to be down there on your hands and knees either way, so why not try to do the best job you can and not fall back on goop?
  • Mitered vs. Coped Baseboard Joints - The Spruce
    4 Reasons to Have Mitered Joints When Using PVC or MDF Trim Shrinkage is a moot point with polyurethane and MDF moldings, so this is not a reason to cope the joints Poly doesn't expand or contract, nor does MDF, at least under normal conditions (direct water contact will cause MDF to swell or contract)
  • Do baseboards have to be cut to 45 degree angles? - Houzz
    Or, you can rent an electric miter saw, probably less than $20 per day, or purchase one for $100-$200 Your walls may not be square, you may also need a coping saw and a scribe, another $20 or so for the saw, scribe can be a nail or similar You could do butt joints, but you may see a crack HD, Lowe’s in my area do not cut mitered joints
  • Butted + mitered baseboards - Woodworking Talk
    Hi to all, thanks in advance for perspective I am replacing the casings and baseboards in my condo and going for simple and minimal I've decided to go 5 25 x 6875 for the baseboards in a plain craftsman style MDF and 3 5 x 59375 for the door casings I'm attracted to clean lines and have done a bit of reading
  • Any reason not to just use butt joints for flat baseboards?
    If you have perfectly flat walls, sure But if you don't, chances are one board will stand a little more proud of the wall than the other, and you'll see a step in the face of the baseboard at the butt joint Sure you could feather it out with filler, but at that point you might as well have cut a scarf joint in the first place
  • How To: Cope Install Trim Like a Pro - The Craftsman Blog
    It also has a unique D-shape that allows it to fit around the piece of trim you are working on You’ll need to have one of these before you start How To Cope Trim When you have an outside corner on trim, you break out your mitre saw and cut the two pieces at a 45° If your walls are square and your floors are level, you put the two pieces





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